Replace rear springs on shogun sport10/27/2022
On the downside, the offset of the wheels looked much better with the ‘kill you if you take it on the freeway’ setup - my eyes have been opened and now I can’t unsee the OEM wheels tucked away inside the wheelwell. I’m also really glad I’d bought the jack kit once I realized what the problem was. Also, the creaks and groans I thought were coming from the coilovers are now gone. Replace rear springs on shogun sport plus#On the plus side, I got away unscathed from a stupid mistake. One nut actually fell off as I came to a stop.��Ĭouple of pluses and minuses from all this: Here you will find step-by-step tutorials and tips on changing the Springs on your MITSUBISHI PAJERO / SHOGUN SPORT. Christmas came early as I managed to limp in to a car park after getting serious vibrations as the lug nuts loosened off. Replace rear springs on shogun sport drivers#If, when changing your springs or swapping in coilovers, you decide to switch wheels, say - from your winter sets to the OEMs, and if the set coming off use centering rings while set going on do not, for goodness sake do not forget to remove said centering rings.ask me how I know.Ĭame THIS close to losing the front drivers side wheel today. Abarth Only: Remove the strut tower brace by removing the six bolts below: Lift the front of the car on both sides and lower on jackstands.Ģ. The best option is to get the GWR performance shorter bump stop kit: ġ. Replace rear springs on shogun sport free#Trimming ~1 inch off the bump stops will give you more free suspension travel, and since the spring rate is higher than stock, you'll hit the bump stops less anyway. Not trimming the bump stops is okay, but you might spend more time hitting bump stops due to the reduced suspension travel over large bumps. TOP DEAL Springs rear and front for MITSUBISHI Pajero Sport I Off-Road (K7, K9) from 1996 MY from various OEM part manufacturers. However, he presented a okay/better/best scenario. Be careful not to over-tighten the nut on the strut shaft as you run the risk of stripping the allen head on the strut shaft.Ī note regarding the bump stops: Elsewhere on the internet, Brian Goodwin recommended that the bump stops do not need to be trimmed with the RoadsterSport springs. In these cases, I will usually settle for muscle memory in tightening the nuts to the desired spec. If you thought of using a torque wrench on the bit and tightening the nut with a standard wrench, that may not be an option as many torque wrenches will not measure torque in reverse. For the latter, your only real option is to either find a specialized 14mm strut nut tool (I was unable to), or to hold the strut shaft with a bit/allen wrench and turn the nut with another standard wrench. For the former, you simply have no space to fit a deep socket over there to tighten the nut and are limited to a standard wrench. These two locations are the forward strut nuts on the rear strut towers and the strut nuts. However, I ran into two places here where following torque specs was just not feasible. Torque wrench ( Available on )Ī note regarding torque specs: Normally, I am a big stickler when using appropriate torque specs everywhere. Spring compressor (this can be rented at most auto stores) Note that these springs are only recommended with Koni adjustable shocks or the OEM Bilsteins. Remover the lower shock bolts (same wrench and socket). Remove the lower sway bar link bolts (18mm wrench and socket). Lower the jack a bit to set the Jeep on the stands, but not lowered all the way. Set jack stands under the frame just ahead of the lower link mounts. Goodwin Racing was kind enough to sponsor me a set of RoadsterSport springs, which I'll have a review posted for in the next couple of weeks. Jack up the Jeep with a floor jack under the axle center. Measuring up from the top of the tread to the underside of wheel arch revealed one side had a clearance 1.5cm less than the other.This tutorial will walk you through the process of changing the shocks and/or springs on the 124 Spider. Inspecting the Shogun once we had it back in the warehouse threw up something odd, hardly noticeable but it was there, one side was riding higher than the other. The ride was also noticeably stiffer on the rear making the Shogun feel a little bit lighter on it’s feet and less like the Titanic. Had it fixed the knock on the back end? Yes, we tested the Shogun on the ramp in front of the warehouse which was a place this knock occurred every time – nothing. There was not much difference between the old springs and the new springs, the Monroe’s were the same height but it was obvious that there was more compression with the originals meaning the back end was riding lower especially with added weight and over rougher terrain. Eventually the job was finished, the new springs were in.
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